Some years ago Lou and I were taken, by his publishers, to Stephane Reynaud’s wonderful restaurant in Paris. However it was during a public transport strike, so the city was gridlocked, and we arrived an hour and a half late. That’s one kind of slow food. Because of the strike, Stephane had closed the restaurant to the public, and we (some Australian and Canadian booksellers, and the French and English publishers) were entertained in grand style. The food was to die for, and the wine, and the digestifs at the end of the meal (some of them very old and made by his family). He’s a big, warm, generous bear of a man and he gave us all a great evening that I still remember. But the slow food we all love is, I think, best in winter. Stephane’s latest book is full of simple, hearty, and delicious one-pot dishes. They’re all fairly easy to prepare, even if some of them do need to simmer slowly for a good time. I think that either his lamb shanks with white beans, or is beef cheeks with shiraz, might be on the table at our housein the near future.
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